Tropical African Paradise

Our next destination was Bangwe Island, situated at the end of the San Sebastian Peninsula and one of the five islands comprising the Bazaruto Archipelago.

 

With little on the island apart from sand dunes, it was a secluded and idyllic spot for a little relaxation. Whilst there, we were treated to a picnic lunch that included the most delicious crayfish, calamari, salads, and homemade buns. The rest of the day was spent taking it easy under the umbrellas and swimming in the crystal-clear ocean.

 

For the remainder of our stay, we indulged in waking up late, reading, swimming in the ocean and the hotel's infinity pool, enjoying the most delicious cuisine and playing the local board game Tsoro or Tchuva, as well as sampling the local rum called Tipo Tinto. We marvelled at the bird life, as this area is bird lover’s paradise and home to large flocks of flamingos, pelicans, crab plovers, and egrets, to name a few. We took leisurely walks through the thick, lush mangroves and on the powder-white beach, and were kept entertained by the ghost crabs that would scuttle away from us at the speed of lightning and then disappear into the sand before our eyes. The sand also provided a canvas for gastropod molluscs to create their intricate artwork on, amongst the beautiful pansy shells that decorated the beach. Interestingly enough, the pansy shell is a living creature and not a shell at all. The locals collect shells to generate income by making various items like lamp shades.

 

One of the many highlights on this trip was a sundowner cruise on a typical dhow. We followed the channel south to the Marape fishing village, where we witnessed the most exquisite sunset as it peeked through the mangroves. We met some of the locals and were introduced to their locally-grown produce, including cashew nuts, monkey oranges, granadillas, paw paws and coconuts. The village is mostly used during the fishing season and it's very primitive. A hole in the ground with black water, which looked terribly dirty to us, was their source of fresh water and used to wash their clothes and for drinking once it had been boiled. They proudly showed us their open air church, consisting of only two pieces of wood that had been modified into chairs and a simple pulpit. The guide introduced us to cassava, a vegetable with a hard and starchy white flesh and an important source of carbohydrates. It forms the basis of cassava flour, which is made by the villagers. The cassava contains a strong poison (cyanide) that needs to be eliminated during the preparation of the flour. This is done by cooking or fermenting the vegetable, then cutting it into small pieces and drying it on a dry rack in the open before it is finally ground into flour.

 

On our last evening, we went on a nature drive through the sanctuary. Although we didn’t see any giraffes, gemsbok, zebras, spitting cobras, pythons or puff adders, we had the most incredible bird’s eye view of the peninsula. We saw the smaller islands on the opposite side of the peninsula, as well as the islands of Bazaruto, Magaruque and Bangwe. An unexpected treat on the drive came from the hotel staff, who spoilt us with our favorite drinks and the most delicious peri-peri calamari and spicy giblets. Thereafter, we took a hike to a lookout and watched another exquisite sunset before making our way back.

 

As our holiday in paradise drew to a close, the staff once again sang and danced as the boat left the hotel, and Ernesto explained to us that they were wishing us goodbye and safe travels, and to greet the people at home. Not long after setting out, a school of dolphins joined us, much to our delight. The skipper stopped the boat so we could watch the dolphins perform their antics for a while, but due to the changing tides, we had to continue on to Vilankulo. As we approached, we could see the local fishermen pulling their boats across the sand banks towards the water, while others snorkelled or caught fish and crabs. For the locals, it was just another day in the office as they tried to make a living from the sea.

 

It had been the most glorious five days, filled with many beautiful memories - and it is definitely a destination that requires another visit.

 

Tips for visiting Mozambique:

 

• Health precautions: There is a risk of malaria, so prophylaxis is recommended.

 

• Currency: US dollars can be used at most of the hotels or you can exchange currency at airports or banks. Credit cards are becoming more acceptable at major hotels and restaurants.

 

• Language: The official language is Portuguese. Local languages include Tsonga and Makhuwa. English is spoken in most of the tourist areas.

 

• Climate: The best time to visit Mozambique is from May to November. The peak times (Christmas, New Year, Easter and school holidays) are more crowded. The rainy season is from October to March, with possible flooding and impassable roads. The dry season (April to September) is cooler and more pleasant. There is no time difference between South Africa and Mozambique.

 

• Electricity: 220-240 volts, 50 Hz - the same as in South Africa. Plugs are European 2-pin and 2-pin 'Schuko', with some South African round 3-pin types.

 

• Telecommunications: There is mobile phone coverage in all the main cities and most provinces.

 

• Tipping: This is usually expected and anything between 5% and 10% is customary. Over tipping spoils the relationship between the tipper and service provider – so rather show your appreciation by personally thanking the staff for good service.

 

• Travel guide: A handy book to carry around with you is the Getaway Guide, Mozambique by Mike Copeland.