Words, Photos & Video: Greg Gearing
I looked down in horror at my packed motorbike, which was all ready for a two-night adventure trip to the Eastern Free State, to see oil pouring out onto the driveway. Evidently this was not the ideal way to start a trip. I called my dad, who was waiting for me to join him, fearing the worst and that the trip would have to be postponed! Fortunately, it turned out to be a seal on the drive shaft that needed replacing. A quick trip to the bike shop and we were on our way to Clarens.
Photo credit: Greg Gearing
I count myself extremely blessed to share so many interests with my dad, whether we spend the day waterskiing, mountain biking, golfing, fishing, or whatever other outdoor activity is on the cards, he is always keen to get involved. Credit must go to the old man for his ability to keep up with us younger folk, and every once in a while he’ll surprise us with his sheer determination to not be labelled as a grandpa, even though he’s been one for a few years now. When it comes to motorbikes, we share the same passion.
Like so many of our trips, the planning was limited. We had a rough idea of where we wanted to end up and how many days we could take, but other than that we would make it up as we went along. I know there definitely is a place for planning and the good old saying, 'If you fail to plan, you plan to fail' is often true. But there is a great sense of freedom and excitement generated when you don’t really have a plan in mind. You open yourself up to so many more opportunities that may not have been available had you meticulously planned the trip to the very last detail. And in our case, our lack of planning was the secret to a great trip.
We left Hilton and made our way through the lush green hills of the Natal Midlands up towards Craigieburn Dam. The vegetation quickly changed to arid thorn bush as we passed through Middelrus towards Weenen, the second oldest European settlement in KwaZulu-Natal. Originally we had hoped to make it up to Ladysmith and find a spot next to the camp in the area, but we were running out of daylight so the plan changed. While stocking up in Weenen, my dad remembered an old acquaintance, John Rich, who ran a 4x4 camp in the area called Stoney Ridge. A quick Google search for his number (the beauty of technology and travel) and we had a beautiful camping spot on the Bloukrans River. We arrived just in time to enjoy a swim in the river and a beer as the sun set over the golden bushveld.
Prior to trip, I had come across a helpful website called Dual Sport Africa, which has a bunch of adventure riding routes across the country that have been verified by riders. We planned to tackle one of these routes, called the Swinburne Tunnel Adventure, on day two.
After a quick wake-up dip in the river, we packed up and headed out of the valley towards Ladysmith, the gateway to the delights of the Central and Northern reaches of the Drakensberg range. Fourteen kilometres outside of Ladysmith, we turned off the asphalt and headed along the railway service roads. These roads provide some great riding conditions, with enough twists and turns to keep you fully engaged in the ride. It wasn’t long before we were meandering our way up towards the old Swinburne Tunnel, which was constructed in 1925 and provides an alternative and scenic route to the top of Van Reenen Pass.
A word of caution though when entering a relatively long tunnel, it is advisable to take your sunglasses off (Dad learnt this lesson fairly quickly). I had just made my way through the tunnel and was waiting for my dad on the other side when I heard a shout for help. A combination of the slippery wet surface and his inability to see anything through his Ray Bans resulted in him taking a little tumble and he now required my help to get the bike back on its wheels. When we both eventually emerged from the tunnel, we were greeted by a spectacular view of Natal.
A few kilometres on and we joined the hordes of holidaymakers making their way to the coast, to enjoy summer by the sea. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long before we left them behind and hit the dirt as we continued on towards the Golden Gate National Park in the Eastern Free State. Riding through Golden Gate is breathtaking, as the road winds its way past incredible rock formations that offer the perfect opportunity.
Photo credit: Greg Gearing
Prior to trip, I had come across a helpful website called Dual Sport Africa, which has a bunch of adventure riding routes across the country that have been verified by riders. We planned to tackle one of these routes, called the Swinburne Tunnel Adventure, on day two.
After a quick wake-up dip in the river, we packed up and headed out of the valley towards Ladysmith, the gateway to the delights of the Central and Northern reaches of the Drakensberg range. Fourteen kilometres outside of Ladysmith, we turned off the asphalt and headed along the railway service roads. These roads provide some great riding conditions, with enough twists and turns to keep you fully engaged in the ride. It wasn’t long before we were meandering our way up towards the old Swinburne Tunnel, which was constructed in 1925 and provides an alternative and scenic route to the top of Van Reenen Pass.
A word of caution though when entering a relatively long tunnel, it is advisable to take your sunglasses off (Dad learnt this lesson fairly quickly). I had just made my way through the tunnel and was waiting for my dad on the other side when I heard a shout for help. A combination of the slippery wet surface and his inability to see anything through his Ray Bans resulted in him taking a little tumble and he now required my help to get the bike back on its wheels. When we both eventually emerged from the tunnel, we were greeted by a spectacular view of Natal.
A few kilometres on and we joined the hordes of holidaymakers making their way to the coast, to enjoy summer by the sea. Thankfully, it wasn’t too long before we left them behind and hit the dirt as we continued on towards the Golden Gate National Park in the Eastern Free State. Riding through Golden Gate is breathtaking, as the road winds its way past incredible rock formations that offer the perfect opportunity to really twist the grip and get the bike rolling around those bends.
All too soon we reached the campsite, which is nestled in the foothills of some impressive highlands. The campsite is very pleasant, with great facilities, and the perfect for the wary traveller to stop and relax. We, however, weren’t in the mood for relaxing and after setting-up camp we decided to take a leisurely 20 km or so ride to Clarens, to see what all the fuss over this small town (just 13 square kilometres) was about.
To say Clarens punches above its weight is an understatement. This quaint little village is delightful. It feels like a piece of Europe has been cut out and implanted within South Africa. The town is made up of a myriad of coffee shops, pubs, and crafts stalls all situated around the village green, which provides the ideal spot to enjoy a picnic or just to sit back and take in the surreal atmosphere. Of more interest to us was the abundant choice of different types of beers available, from famous imported German beers to local beers brewed in Clarens' brewery. We had to be careful not to indulge too much in the pleasures of the town, as we still had to ride back to our campsite.
Back at the campsite, we took a walk to the rock pools situated close by. What a way to end a fantastic day, relaxing in the chilly but refreshing mountain waters. The evening was spent around the fire braaing some steaks and my dad sharing stories about his youth, and I was reminded how blessed I am to have such a good relationship with my father.
After a fairly average night’s sleep, more so for my dad than for me as he was still getting used to the idea of not sleeping on a mattress, we packed up camp and prepared to hit the road back home. We entered KwaZulu-Natal via Middledale Pass, which twists its way down the escarpment and eventually comes to an end in the mysterious and tiny town of Geluksburg.
It was one of those typical hot summer days and with all our riding kit on, the heat was almost unbearable. Fortuitously, we happened to cross over the Tugela River and the chance to take a dip in the cool waters below Spionkop Dam was far too tempting.
The kilometres rolled by as we cruised along a network of back roads, trying hard to out run the storm building above the Drakensberg Mountains. Thankfully, we managed to stay just ahead of the it, and as a reward for our elusive skills, we stopped for a much-needed waffle at the Waffle Hut, just outside Winterton. The final stretch of the trip came all too soon as we made our way onto the N3 and back to Hilton.
Reflecting back on the trip, I was once again reminded what a beautiful country we live in and how fortunate we are to have access to some of the best riding in the world right at our doorsteps. Now the only thing left is for you to get on your bike and enjoy the adventure. •
dinFO
For more information on adventure riding routes across the country that have been verified by riders, visit Dual Sport Africa on www.dualsportafrica.com
Places to stay:
• Golden Gate National Park - Offers camping, hotel, and chalet accommodation www.sanparks.org/parks/golden_gate
• Stoney Ridge - Offers camping www.stoneyridge.co.za or email John Rich on
